Monday, 28 May 2007
Stitch the layers together, right sides together, with a narrow seam leaving top open for bone insertion. Turn through and press. On the wrong side mark the centre front with a faint pencil line. Using a small stitch, sew from bottom to top along this line, then change to zipper foot. Insert first trimmed and smoothed bone into the stomacher and with your nail press it up against the stitched line. Line up the zipper foot alongside and smoothing and adjusting as you go stitch along the bone. This should give a snug boning channel. When all the bones are sewn you can slip the top ends out to trim and neaten if needed. Now work on the other side of the centre line, alternating sides each time. Repeat the boning insertion, smoothing and stitching with zippper foot until you fill the stomacher completely. Some bones will need radical shaping at the bottom to match the shape of stomacher, remember to smooth edges with sandpaper as well. I like to alternate stitching directions from bottom to top and vice versa each time to avoid layer puckering. I don't use pins at all, I don't need them but it's a personal choice. I prefer this method to marking a line using the boning and stitching along that, the zipper foot should avoid any needle breakage problems. This is a very quick method of making boning channels.